Vogue 9205 and a Hiccup

So after seeing Cenetta (of The Mahogany Stylist)  version of Vogue 9205, I decided to get the pattern.  Once I pulled  some wool/lycra from the stash, it was a go.

As you can see from the picture, the top features those lovely pleats at the neckline.  Therein lies my hiccup.  I sewed darts instead of pleats.  I've just spent the morning unpicking and re-stitching.  Hopefully, the rest goes smoothly.  More coming soon......

New Year, New Outlook, New Jacket

I know. I know. I've been gone so long it's heinous.  I have a terrible history as poor blogger but I'm taking steps to improve that.  I sew, but often don't blog it because of the photo issue.  I can take photos on Zelda, but they're meh because it's not a real person.  Getting one of the men in the house to take a photo is like hunting down a rare, wild animal--they're just not to be found when the time is right.  So I've tried a friend's tripod with remote.  I liked it and I ordered one up for myself.  This is going to be so much easier than the 10 second delay on my phone!  Now that I can take photos of my projects I should be able to blog about those projects as they come off the machine.

To keep me productive and focused, I've joined the 50 Yard Dash sew-a-long on Pattern Review.  The purpose of this sew-a-long is to sew 50 yards of fabric this year from our stash.  I think that this is a very attainable goal.  It comes out to roughly a yard a week.  That doesn't sound so bad.  It's a very busy thread with a very large group of participants.   So far this year, I've finished Michael's shirt-jacket = 3 yards.  This will be blogged about as soon as I can capture photos of him and the jacket.  I've also just finished today's jacket for 2½ yards.  That makes me with 5½ yards sewn and 44.5 yards to go.  Woohoo!  I've also joined the 2018 Fabric Fast thread and so far, I've not bought fabric since mid-November.  Another big Woohoo!

Now on to the jacket.

This is Simplicity 8172 view C one of their kimono jackets.  View C is supposed to be done in contrast fabric for the top and bottom, but I have this lovely knit velvet that is embroidered with flowers and swirls and has little sequins scattered over it that I wanted to use for a kimono  and I loved the flair in back on this one.  I used the Large size for my size 42 bust. As  you can see, the fit is still very forgiving.

In the pattern photo, the underbust seam comes just below the bust.  Mine is riding on my very short waist.  I like it on my waist ok, but I think next time I'd really like to shorten it but I'm not sure how.  If anyone has ideas, please let me know in the comments.

I didn't realize until I got to that part in the instructions, but the neckline and front edges are finished with single-fold bias tape.

I thought this gave a neater finish than folding over and stitching.  It also gave some structure to the neckline and front edge without being stiff.  Luckily, I happened to have some in stock in just the right color.

You can see the little flair in the back skirt area.  The sleeves end with a self-fabric cuff. (Pattern calls for contrast color here.)   It's warm and cozy with my pale yellow t-shirt.  I have plans for a lime green charmeuse tank for it for this spring.  There's a yard or so of it left over from another project.

Hope your New Year's resolutions and plans are all off to a good start.  And I hope it includes some  sewing!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Easy Fall Jacket; Butterick 6065

I'm finally sewing for fall and this little jacket was such an easy sew.  Just a few seams and a hem.  It's got a cocoon shape, darts for the shoulder seam, and a front band.   I made it up in a sheer knit mesh from Fabric Mart and just love wearing it.  Casual and relaxed with a dressy vibe.

I made a size large with no alterations.  It's only two pieces;  the body and the front band.  In such a sheer fabric and such odd-shaped pieces, it would be easy to get lost in the puzzle, so I cut it out using additional notches where there were circles or dots.  This worked out great; it came together so easily.  

Since the fabric was so sheer, I opted not to serge it.  Instead I zig-zagged the seam allowances and then trimmed.  For the hem I just turned and stitched.  

This is such a great little jacket and such a quick sew, too.  I may have to make another.  Maybe one for my daughter--I have enough fabric leftover as Fabric Mart sent so much extra.  

Till later;  Happy sewing all!

Seeing Double, Burda 7509

I don't usually sew duplicates of a pattern but this was good enough to repeat right off the bat.  I first became aware of this pattern by several great looking reviews of it on Pattern Review so I purchased the pattern.  It's a sleeveless tank cut on the bias meant for lightweight wovens. There are darts above the bust which is unusual but makes for a great fit.

This first top is sewn in a rayon challis from fabric.com in a size 20 to get a finished garment measurement of 45¼ inches.  Although not a recommended fabric, I love the drape and feel of this top.  I used French seams on the shoulders and side seams and self-fabric bias strips are used to finish the neck and armholes.  

This second version was sewn in a cotton voile from Fabric Mart.  I always forget what a joy it is to sew with cotton.  I love the finished product of challis and knits, but there's all that slippy-slidey business going on while you sew it.  That bias binding went in lickety split.  Again I used French

seams.  You'll notice that the voile top looks smaller than the challis top even though they're both the same size.  What a difference fabric makes!

Next up is the topper I made to go with the brown voile top!  Happy sewing all! 

McCall's 7571, Another Cat Top

I hope you dog lovers can stand another cat top.  I loved the fabric so much of the last one , but ended up donating the top because the bulk of the collar and facing disturbed me too much.  So like a true fabric fanatic, when Fabric Mart offered it up for one their challis sales, I grabbed some more to make a different top.  Enter McCall's 7571, view A. 

The pattern says these are loose-fitting pullover tops with a gathered neckline and little V-neck opening.  It also has a gathered waist.  When they say loose-fitting, they mean it.  I sewed an 18 based on my measurements, wanting a loose-fitting summer top.  I could have easily gone down a size and still be loose.

The neckline was especially huge.  I thought, "No problem.  It's going to be gathered onto a bias binding strip."  Despite careful handling, the rayon challis grew.  The bias strip was near-equal measure to the top's opening.  I decided to continue sewing it down and made a narrow tie to go through it to pull it all in.  This ended up working well.  The top was so comfortable for a hot day at the zoo with the grandkids. 

Lessons learned for next time:  go down a size and use a firmer fabric than challis which grew a little at the neck and neck binding. 

Next up a couple of Burda tops....

Yet Another Button-Down Shirt--Butterick 5526

I'm acquiring quite a few a these button-down shirts the last few months, but I'm loving them.  They're pretty versatile; alone or with a top underneath or like this one, in a lighter fabric with the sleeves rolled up for summer. 

I started this top in June but it got side-lined by the shirts for the boys and the Jane Austen Project.  I was so happy to get back to it.  This fabric, a cotton shirting from Fabric Mart, was a dream to sew with.  It did everything asked without a hiccup or pucker, even the set-in sleeves and the collar.

The pattern is reviewed 65 times on Pattern Review and I can see why it's so loved!  The instructions just make sense and the pieces fit together so nicely.  The fit is good, too.  I cut a size 18 neck, shoulder, cuff and sleeve and used the size 20 for the bust, waist and hips.  The shoulders run a little wide, according to reviews, and I found that I had to do a slightly larger narrow shoulder adjustment than usual. 

The pockets have this cute little pleat in them that makes for a nice detail.  I even managed to match the stripes of the pocket to the shirt. 

The collar and band went together like a charm.  And it lays so neatly in this fabric. 

The tab was a cinch to make and install.  I really like the feature, too, however the rolled up sleeves hit me just below the elbow and always inch their way up during the day.  I also made it with the traditional cuff and placket so I can wear my sleeves down this fall.

The fit on the front, I think, is pretty good.  It could use some shaping in the back waist area, though. It looks pretty boxy in the photo.   Maybe fisheye darts.  Or try the view D with the princess seams next time, which I'd really like to do as so many have raved about that view. 

I had a remnant left over, so I made hubs a pocket square for one of his suits that he wears with a lavender shirt.  They look so nice together. 

Well, back to sewing.  I have a new McCall's in the works.