Playing a Little Catch Up: Simplicity 8059, Burda 6501.

Well, its been quite busy this past 2 weeks here.  I didn't get quite as much sewing done as I had hoped for Faye's Tops That Pop Sew-A-Long. In fact,  wasn't able to get them sewn and pictures taken in time to participate at all.  Boo-Hoo!  Do check out the blog and the Pinterest board, though to see all the great tops that did get sewn!

First up was Simplicity 8059. view C the duster.   I needed a pattern with nice, simple lines to show off this great crochet sweater knit.  The make things a little more complicated, I only bought 2 yards of it from Fabric Mart limiting my options more.  Simplicity 8059 actually requires 2 and 3/4 yards but I'm much shorter than it's designed for.  After shortening 5 inches at the hem, and using a 1 and 1/2 inch hem you see it comes to knee level on my 5'3" frame in the large size.

There was just enough fabric to match the stripes.  I also omitted the back waist elastic treatment.  I felt with this fabric it would be clinging since its a knit instead of the woven that the pattern called for and be unnecessary.

The elastic casing would have been difficult to apply to this crochet-like sweater knit.  As it was it was very touchy to work with.  It really wanted to fray where cut.  It needed as little handling as possible and the serger to finish the seams.  I top-stitched the front facing  down as a feature and used some scraps of navy blue jersey for the ties.  It's been a great transition piece for our cool spring. 

The second piece I got done was Burda 6501, view C--a sleeveless, bias top with a ruffle hem.  

I didn't check the length on this before I cut it out.  It looks like a tunic on me and looks high-hip length on the pattern.  I'm not sure What I think about this length yet.  I may shorten it later.  It's in a navy blue cotton voile from Fashion Fabrics.  Cotton is always such a palate cleanser after a tricky fabric  This is a navy blue cotton voile from Fashion Fabrics.  It was such a pleasure to work with.  I didn't check the length of the pattern against me before a stitched it up though.  On me, it a low-hip tunic length.  The pattern photo shows a high-hip length top.  I'm still on the fence about the length.  the conscientious sewer in me wants to take it apart, shorten it, then re-attach the ruffle, while the lazy stitcher in me says it's ok.  We'll see after a wear or two which wins out. 

My Failure-- McCall's 7542

McCall's 7542, everyone who sews it seems has made this pattern or used the sleeves from it.  It's just so cute I had to jump on the band wagon, too.  My version, however, did not result in a top I can wear.  On the bright side though, someone bigger than me can so it will go into the charity pile.

The top didn't fail because of the pattern, it was all operator error.  The first and biggest mistake was the fabric.  It looks oh so pretty doesn't it?  I got it from Fashion Fabrics Club and have found them to be a hit or miss in their fabrics.  Some things are great, some things leave a little to be desired:  not quite as described or too thin.  That sort of thing.  This was described as poly crepon.  What the heck is that?  I had no idea but decided it was so pretty I decided I'd buy it anyway.  Total dork attack. It arrived as a polyester, wrinkled crepe fabric 60" wide.  After the washer and dryer, however, it was about 47" wide!  I figured an unstructured top might be best as it was too thin for a skirt and I had another skirt in similar colorway planned. 

I cut a size 20, my usual these days, with a C-cup and used the tulip sleeves.  When I pin fit it, the neck was too high for me.   I lowered the neck by scooping it out 1 inch making a new matching facing (my first time. Yay!  It came out correctly.)  I also did a narrow shoulder adjustment, despite there being a back shoulder dart.  This, too, is normal for me.  I'm just short enough that the length was good for me without being cropped.

The End Result:  it grew!  It's still too wide in the shoulder and way too wide in the body.  The neckline is slightly too wide, even though I didn't do anything to that.  I'm swimming in the tulip sleeves.  They're just too much fabric and come down below my elbow at the inner arm. 

Lesson Learned:  I still like this pattern and still want to sew a manageable version of it.  I need to use a stable fabric, though.  I could stand to go down a size I think width-wise.  It literally swallows me whole.  The C- cup works well; the dart was in the proper place. The tulip sleeves are lovely to look at but not to wear.  Next time I will a more formed sleeve.  Either View C or D appeal to me.  I'll need to double check that shoulder width next time, too, to see if it was fabric vs fit.  So I still come away with I think a very workable pattern.  I just need to incorporate the lessons learned.  Now to find the right fabric. :)

Happy sewing!

The Floral Peplum Tunic--McCall's 7390

Originally, I purchased this pattern for a different view, view A for it's clean, lean lines.  A girl can always hope that it will help.  However, the fabric that I purchased for it came in a 45" instead of 60" (my bad) leaving with insufficient fabric to make that top.  Moving on, I picked up this lovely floral challis lawn from Fashion Fabrics Club from the same shipment.  So much fun I had to jump in right away!  I didn't really like it for the peasant top I got it for, but seeing this pattern out, loved it for view B with it's angled lines, little peplum skirt and hi-low hem. 

I cut a size 18 in the neck and bust, and a 20 in the waist and hip.  I did my usual ½ inch narrow shoulder adjustment.

 

The pattern instructions have you hand stitch the front facings down but I topstitched them down and they look great and saved a ton of time.  The armscye is finished with self bias binding.  My neckband came out a little uneven but that was operator error and isn't too bad or noticeable.  I love how loose and flowy this is and it looks great with jeans.  The fabric is so cool to touch, too.  It will be a perfect top for this summer and I look forward to giving it lots of wear.

  I still hope to make view A; I just need to find the right fabric.  It will have to wait a bit as I'm on a bit of a fabric diet for a while.  Too much spending and accrual; need to sew some of it down.  Happy sewing all!

A Simple Cardigan--McCall's 5890

I needed a light cardigan for spring weather fluctuations and had this lovely lightweight sweater knit from Fashion Fabrics Club.  It really called out for something with simple lines. After searching through my patterns, I came up with the cardigan/jacket from McCall's 5890, now OOP.

The pattern is one of Nancy Zieman's 10-20-30 minute to sew patterns.  A theory I did not incorporate into the sewing of this top.  I sewed as I was able, as usual.  The pattern contains a knit travel wardrobe of cardigan, pants in 2 lengths and dress/top.  The cardigan has clean, simple lines and called for a knit so it fit the bill. It features a shawl collar extending from a pleated back neckline.

I sewed a sized 18, narrowed the shoulders by ½ an inch, lengthened the ¾ sleeve to a full-length sleeve, and tapered the wrists for a snugger fit--they were quite loose.  The fabric was just dense enough that the pleats do not show as pleats but smoothed out to nothing.  (The pattern calls for a stable knit and this is a looser weave.)   It doesn't really matter as it doesn't really change the purpose or aesthetic and doesn't show anyway because of my hair.

I love my new sweater.  It's perfect for layering on cool spring mornings and evenings.  It was a quick, easy sew, too that may well be repeated in the future. 

On to the next project, a tunic top.   Happy sewing all!

The Fever Continues-- McCall's 7472

I enjoyed my last button down so much I promptly made another--McCall's 7472. 

I made view C, the green tunic on the front even though I bought it for a different view.  I had this green plaid fabric with silver threads running through it just begging to be a button down.  I enjoy my other one as a jacket-shirt so much, I wanted a second one.

This one has raglan sleeves, a cute tiny collar, and cuffs with a continuous lap. The fabric is from Fashion Fabrics Club and I had enough fabric to cut the plackets on the bias. 

Isn't that little collar too cute!

The directions show a notch on the cuff pattern piece for matching up the shirt to the cuff but the cuff piece itself doesn't have this on it.   It still fits well without this aid.

I used the continuous lap pattern piece and directions from the Simplicity 1013, I liked it so much. 

I will definitely be sewing this pattern up again.  I just love the fit on it and the ease of wear.  I'd really like to sew up view B this summer.  We'll see what happens.  As they say, "So much fabric, so little time!

Hope you're enjoying your spring sewing.  Happy sewing all!

Button-Down Fever -- Simplicity 1013

I know everybody reads Carolyn at Diary of a Sewing Fanatic, right?  If you've been following her lately, then you know she's been on a binge with button-down shirts.  Well, I caught the fever and the cure was this so cute button-down from Simplicity with a little extra fun in back.

I sewed View C with the bias patch pockets on front and the gathered "skirt" in back pictured on the cover.  Love it.  Found some awesome plaid shirting and black georgette from Fashion Fabric Club.

I know, orange and black--strong statement.  But it's so fun!

The directions were wonderful easy.  Usually I have a terrible time with a continuous lap on a sleeve but these came out nicely.  The pattern piece is slightly wider and the directions are very good.

I like that it can be worn buttoned up like shown here or open over another top like a jacket like I wore it last weekend.  Perfect for our cooler temps. 

The only thing I did different from the directions was to top-stitch the placket down.  It's the kind you just fold over and your buttons and buttonholes are supposed to keep it in place.  My fabric doesn't really take a press well, so I knew this would make those plackets unruly in no time.  So I stitched them down like they were normal plackets.  I think they look more finished for it.

I love my new button down shirt.  It's great with jeans, leggings, or my black slacks.  I like it so much, I've started another button-down, McCall's 7472!

Happy spring sewing all!

Finally! Simplicity 1254-- The Leanne Marshall Coat.

I finally finished this coat and I'm finally getting to wear it and I'm also finally getting around to blogging about it!  I've been working on Simplicity 1254 for weeks now.  It's been my first foray into coat making and it's really been the learning process.  

I made view A, the shorter version.  I didn't do a muslin, and I probably should have.  I had read reviews on Pattern Review that it ran snug, especially in the arms and they advised going up a size, which I did.  The only other change I made was to narrow the shoulders a ½ inch.  A muslin would have revealed that the pockets are small and I would have made those larger, but that's the only change I would have made. 

The coat is made of a poly/wool blend Melton coating from Fabric Mart.  I caught is on sale for only $16 a yard, which was my most expensive fabric purchase ever!  But I loved the plum color so much!  The pictures really don't do it justice.  It's a lovely deep plum/berry color.  The lining is a pink poly-charmeuse from Fashion Fabric club.  I decided to interline it for added warmth and used some soft flannel from Joann's.  The wool sewed so nicely!  I can see now why so many sewists enjoy using it. 

The pattern directions were OK until you get to step 11.  That's where everyone on Pattern Review was getting lost, too.  Their method of attaching the lining to the coat makes no sense.  I finally just did it my way and it worked out well. 

The zipper is a little odd but in the end it does make sense.  You just have to read the directions through before you apply it.  The cowl collar closes with a large snap I purchased at Joann's. 

I'm really enjoying wearing my coat.  When I finished it, the temps were in the upper 50s and 60s.  Not coat weather.  So disappointed.  Since then, however, winter has found it's way back to us and I've gotten lots of opportunity to wear it.  I'm sure this is an item that will be worn for several years.

Now on to Spring sewing!  Happy sewing all!

 

Vogue 8817, The Textured Top

I have had a picture of a multi-textured top on my inspiration board for over a year.  It's a white top with multiple sections and each section is a different texture of the same white.  Love it.  Want it.  Must make it mine.  Vogue 8817 view B looked like it would give me what I envisioned.

I set about finding appropriate fabrics and finally found them in an ivory colorway. 

The knit jacquard is from Fabric Mart--it was a dream to sew with.  The jersey knit--almost too thin to use--and the lace were from Fashion Fabrics Club.  I used the jacquard on the bodice and main back panel.  The lace was used on the sleeves, stomach panel and upper back panel.  The jersey was used for the side panels, and underneath the lace on the stomach and back panels. 

I cut this as a size 18 and it was huge!  I ended up raising it at the shoulders, bringing up the neckline and armholes.  I also had to take in quite a bit at the princess seams on both front and back.  By the

time I got done sewing and re-sewing this top, I'd make it twice! 

  If I ever do make it again, I'll go down to a size 16 and raise the neckline.  It sits rather low for my taste and age.  It was a booger bear to make, but I love it dearly now.  It fits nicely and is just what I envisioned.  I can now take that inspiration picture down from the board.

Do you have an inspiration board in your sewing area?  And do you move out the accomplished for a new dream once you create it?  Happy sewing and chasing the dream!