Finally! Simplicity 1254-- The Leanne Marshall Coat.

I finally finished this coat and I'm finally getting to wear it and I'm also finally getting around to blogging about it!  I've been working on Simplicity 1254 for weeks now.  It's been my first foray into coat making and it's really been the learning process.  

I made view A, the shorter version.  I didn't do a muslin, and I probably should have.  I had read reviews on Pattern Review that it ran snug, especially in the arms and they advised going up a size, which I did.  The only other change I made was to narrow the shoulders a ½ inch.  A muslin would have revealed that the pockets are small and I would have made those larger, but that's the only change I would have made. 

The coat is made of a poly/wool blend Melton coating from Fabric Mart.  I caught is on sale for only $16 a yard, which was my most expensive fabric purchase ever!  But I loved the plum color so much!  The pictures really don't do it justice.  It's a lovely deep plum/berry color.  The lining is a pink poly-charmeuse from Fashion Fabric club.  I decided to interline it for added warmth and used some soft flannel from Joann's.  The wool sewed so nicely!  I can see now why so many sewists enjoy using it. 

The pattern directions were OK until you get to step 11.  That's where everyone on Pattern Review was getting lost, too.  Their method of attaching the lining to the coat makes no sense.  I finally just did it my way and it worked out well. 

The zipper is a little odd but in the end it does make sense.  You just have to read the directions through before you apply it.  The cowl collar closes with a large snap I purchased at Joann's. 

I'm really enjoying wearing my coat.  When I finished it, the temps were in the upper 50s and 60s.  Not coat weather.  So disappointed.  Since then, however, winter has found it's way back to us and I've gotten lots of opportunity to wear it.  I'm sure this is an item that will be worn for several years.

Now on to Spring sewing!  Happy sewing all!

 

Cool Tools and Some New Patterns

I'm still working on the Leanne Marshall coat.  It's coming along slowly but progress is being made.  One of the things I read about preparatory to this coat was the issue of pressing.  One of the posters on the Pattern Review Sew-A-Long mentioned that she didn't think her hem looked as good as it could have if she had used a tailor's clapper to get a better crease. I wasn't familiar with this tool so I looked it up and found this great video from Angela Wolf on how to use one.




How did I ever manage to live without one of these?  I promptly ordered one from Nancy's Notions along with a pressing ham for those princess seams.

I'd long wanted a ham and Joann's just never has them in stock.  They arrived just in time for use and they're wonderful.  All I need now is a ham stand to hold the ham for me. 

On to the new patterns...   A couple of weeks ago, Joann's had their Simplicity and Burda on sale so I grabbed a couple for the collection.  I say collection because I have no immediate plans for any of these:

I got Simplicity 1316 for a top or two this summer, love those princess seams and cut on sleeves; Burda 6502, view A with a border print challis or eyelet would be great; and Simplicity 8259, it's just such a dreamy dress but who knows when I'll make it--just had to have it though. 

That's all my news for now.  I'm back to the coat and attaching the hood; the end is in sight.

Happy sewing all!

In The Sewing Room

Yay!  I'm getting a little time to sew.  Unfortunately, I need a lot of time to sew.  The project I'm currently working on is Simplicity 1254, the Leanne Marshall coat.

I just love that cowl/hood!  The pattern says its easy, but the comments on Pattern Review say the directions can be very convoluted in places. There was a Sew-along in 2015 for this pattern and there are several reviews. 

I have a lovely plum colored wool/polyester coating blend that I'm using.  It's my most expensive fabric purchase ever, even on sale!  From Fabric Mart, of course--my Achilles heel.  The lining is a pretty pink charmeuse from Fabric.com.  I decided to interline it.  I looked for Thinsulate by the yard and couldn't find any.  Decided it was probably overkill anyway and settled for the flannel that everyone else in blogland uses--from Joann's. 

Yesterday, I attached the interlining to the lining per the instructions found in Singer Sewing Reference Library book "Tailoring".  I also started thread marking my reference points on the front for the zipper, front fold and center front.  That's such tedious work but so much more effective and durable than chalk marking. 

Hopefully, I'll get in another hour or so this morning to work on it before I go into work. I'll keep you posted on progress. 

Happy sewing all!