The Fabric Made Me Do It--McCall's 6964

I love this pattern; it's a true TNT for me.  I've made it 6 or 7 times and it's been a winner every time--until this time.  This time, however, was my fault and maybe the fabric's. The fabric is a pretty jersey knit with mesh strips sewn on top with stitches, braid and some sequins from Fabric Mart.

The problem started out with the lay out.  I couldn't be sure which side was the selvedge. I couldn't tell the selvedge from the cut edge.  Typically, with these ruffled fabrics, the ruffles run horizontally.   With this fabric, there is no stretch crosswise with the ruffles running horizontally and the stretch runs vertically.  If  I put the ruffles vertically, the crosswise stretch is going across the body.

Thinking that maybe it was designed to be different, I went with the crosswise stretch and the vertical ruffles.  I cut my usual size 16 neck and 18 bust, waist, and hips.  Looking at the finished product, all I can see is a blue hot dog that's been microwaved and split open in several places.

Apparently, I should have treated the knit as a woven and gone with the no-stretch ruffles on the horizontal and a pattern for a woven as well.  The top doesn't work on me, but it may for someone else so it's going into to donation pile.  

The pattern remains a favorite; the fabric made me do it.  It was a learning  opportunity and several lessons were learned.  So on to the next project.....more leggings!

For Cancer Awareness--McCall's 6964

I mentioned in the last post that I had some need to sewing to do before I could finish my Vogue top.  One of my co-workers, a very young lady under 30, was recently diagnosed with an aggressive Stage 4 breast cancer with metastasis to the bone.  Her prognosis is bleak but her outlook is so bright and strong.  She's always been an amazing lady but now she's truly inspirational, too.

As a show of support, the whole store is wearing pink and jeans on Fridays--even the guys.  I never noticed it until now, but for some reason I have absolutely no pink in my wardrobe.  Nada.  I needed a top, quick.  I ordered some pink tencel rayon knit, not knowing exactly what it was but that it was recommended for Tshirts and was a pretty shade of pink.  Got it and it's so thin! and clingy!  I wasn't so sure about this but proceeded.

I've made up McCall's 6964 before, and most likely will again.  It's a very straight forward Tshirt pattern that fits well with few changes.  It is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern so if you do need changes like an FBA, it comes with directions on how to do that.  I cut a size 16 neck, and graded to a size 20.  I over-estimated my size but it turns out I needed that extra room.

It turned out very thin and clingy and most unflattering on me.  But it is still pink, so it's still viable until something better comes along.  To make it more flattering, I'm wearing it with a maroon cardigan I made last winter.  I think it works well together, hides my fluff, and keeps me warm as it's usually very cold in the store.

Now that all the need-to sewing is done I can finish up that Vogue top.  It's really bothering me just sitting on the table next to me.  I usually only work one project at a time until it's finished; no UFOs that way.  So working like this is really upsetting my little apple cart.  I know lots of sewists  work on several projects at a time while others are like me and do one at a time.  Which camp are you in and why do you like to work that way?

And remember Ladies, if you haven't had your mammogram, there's no time like the present.  They do save lives. 

My New Favorite T-Shirt, McCall's 6964

I've tried making T-shirts in the past.  There were always problems:  too short, neckline fits funny, or most often, sleeves too short.  All that has changed with this pattern.  McCall's 6964 is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern so you know there's going to be lots of fitting advice in there. 

I made the long-sleeved view D with a little bit of modifications.

First, I used the knit mesh from Fabric Mart over the entire top, not just the front.  Due to its sheerness, I used a solid blue ITY knit, also from Fabric Mart for the underlay on the front and back bodice pieces leaving the sleeves sheer.  I simply sewed the ITY/mesh pieces as one unit.  I also did a ½ inch forward shoulder adjustment.  I cut a size 16 neck and bust and graded to an 18 waist and

 hip (my pattern only went to a size 16).  The only other change I made was to shorten it by about 3 inches, it was very long on me.

This top is so stinking comfortable!  And perfect for our spring with its variable temps.  I love wearing it.

It's shown here with the tan slacks I made for the Wardrobe Contest (Vogue 8157) as this was intended to be part of my entry.  Oh well, have a great top I love wearing and it looks really great with jeans.  I enjoyed working with the knit mesh so much and enjoy wearing it so much I ordered some more and have it cut out already for another one of these. 

Hope your spring sewing is going well.  Happy sewing all.

Denim Slacks-- Vogue 8157

Vogue 8157 is on out of print oldie but goodie.  This is part of the Spring Wardrobe.  I got 8 pieces done before the deadline then stalled out on a dress.  Still working on the dress.  But back to the pants. 

I love the wide contour waistband that wraps around part of the waist.  It's an easy pattern as well. 

I used a denim with lycra blend from Denver Fabrics that's been in the stash for years.  It's a medium weight with good recovery but wasn't so thick that there was any difficulty in sewing over seams.  No topstitching was involved and I serged all the seams. Very easy peasy.

Encouraged by the fit of the last pair of pants, I cut a size 18 again.  I did do a full thigh adjustment but in hindsight and pictures, I see that this was probably not necessary as these slacks are not very snug.  The mock-fly construction is odd, but I finally figured out something out that worked. 

Not as many wrinkles in the back with this pair as with last pair and a good fit in the seat. Maybe that full thigh adjustment worked after all.   These are so comfortable to wear.   The top is McCall's 6964.  Review coming soon.   Happy sewing all.