It's Been A Long Hiatus

I know it's been a terribly long time since I've posted.  We lost my father-in-law to a massive stroke this summer and then my mother passed this autumn.  The two losses have left me rather depressed and unable to sew or participate in many sewing activities.  I still peeked in on my favorite blogs and on Pattern Review but rarely left comments.  But now I've begun to dabble once again and have begun to feel energized and creative once more.

Just a few days ago Renee at Hand Stitched Treasure  posted about Kathy Shaw's Crazy Quilt Classes.  I took the very beginner's class earlier this year.  It was so much fun!  It covers a lot basic of stitches and techniques at your own pace using materials you download as you complete each task of the sampler.   You don't have to do it exactly like hers, as shown in mine.  You choose the colors of fabric and threads/silk ribbon, and emblishments. She has several classes available throughout the year.  Link to Kathy's site is here.  Here's a photo of my sampler:

I've gone on to sew another block on my own .

The flower in the center is hand embroidered using a pattern from a source I no longer remember.  Oh those gray hairs!  I realize now after reading some books, that the doily in the corner is probably a mistake as it will make that seam very lumpy when/if I get it sewn together with other blocks.

In other sewing news, my mother was an award-winning quiltmaker.  She left 2 quilts unfinished.  One just needs the quilting and the binding.  The other is still in the piecing stage.  My sisters, one of who is a beginning sewer, decided that since I've done a couple of small wallhangings, I'm  am an expert too. They elected me to finish these two quilts.  I'm completely self-taught and my work is passable at  best.  I'm so intimidated by this project!  I don't want to mess it up.  I'm taking a beginner quilt class on Craftsy hoping to fill in the gaps in my education.  So far I've cut out the fat quarters and need to cut the background fabric now.  Just need a chunk of time to do it.

So, I'm quite invigorated by all the new things I'm learning and that the sewing mojo is back again. A big thank you to all those wonderful sewists I follow for your inspiration and the lessons I've learned  just by following your work.

The Jane Austin Project-- So It Begins.

It's that time again--The 10th Annual Jane Austen Festival takes place on the 2nd weekend in July in Louisville.  Daughter Anna and I had such a good time last year, we're attending again this year.  This year's theme is Persuasion.  In preparation, we're both re-reading Persuasion, Anna's favorite Austen book, and I'm sewing new costumes for the both of us.

I'm off to a rather slow start.  I wanted to do Anna's first, but I have yet to knuckle that girl down for her current measurements.  I'm trying to make stays this year, too, so the measurements are critical.  So I began at the beginning--the chemise for me.

I'm using Sense and Sensibility's Regency Underthings Pattern.  I love these patterns.  They come in a full range of sizes, 6-26, in one envelope.  The instructions are usually easy to follow, too.  The pattern pieces, though hand-drawn are on thick paper with very bold lines for tracing ease. 

As you can see, this is a very simple garment to construct.   It has a drawstring closure at the front neck; I used a pretty, narrow satin ribbon for the drawstring.   The sleeves are simply rectangles.  These are then closed and attached to the gown with a gusset.

I've never sewn a gusset before, or seen one in a garment other than in photos, so this was my head scratcher with this project.  It took several tries to get it right.  Finally looked at the pictures of the finished gusset and how it was situated then it made sense.

The fabric is a very thin voile from Fabric.com.  You can see Zelda's padding through it but it is going to be mid-July after all.   Temps are already hot and humid here and due to get hotter.  Next up are the stays.  This is my first effort at any kind of corset work so it should be interesting.  It has 3 layers of fabric, boning, and some kind of eyelet holes.   I'm intimidated but forging ahead.  Will keep you posted.

A Lace Tunic -- Simplicity 8016

There are so many cute lace tunics out there, I finally decided it was time to make one!  Simplicity 8016 was in my pattern stash and it even shows view A as a lace tunic!  The black stretch lace (from Fabric Mart)  was already in my stash, too.  A plan was in motion.

The pattern has lots of sizing options ranging from XXS to XXL in one envelope--I made the size XL. I didn't care for where the sleeve ended so I borrowed the lower sleeve band from View D.  Folding it over and tapering it made it the perfect length.

The neckline is finished with very narrow black bias binding.  I like the neat finish it gives the neck.  I used the same bias binding for the hem treatment, too.

I love how it looks with different colored camisoles under it.  This turquoise is my favorite.  I really like it with my black one, too.  This was such an easy project.  I'll definitely be looking at this pattern again!  So many cute tops in it!

Playing a Little Catch Up: Simplicity 8059, Burda 6501.

Well, its been quite busy this past 2 weeks here.  I didn't get quite as much sewing done as I had hoped for Faye's Tops That Pop Sew-A-Long. In fact,  wasn't able to get them sewn and pictures taken in time to participate at all.  Boo-Hoo!  Do check out the blog and the Pinterest board, though to see all the great tops that did get sewn!

First up was Simplicity 8059. view C the duster.   I needed a pattern with nice, simple lines to show off this great crochet sweater knit.  The make things a little more complicated, I only bought 2 yards of it from Fabric Mart limiting my options more.  Simplicity 8059 actually requires 2 and 3/4 yards but I'm much shorter than it's designed for.  After shortening 5 inches at the hem, and using a 1 and 1/2 inch hem you see it comes to knee level on my 5'3" frame in the large size.

There was just enough fabric to match the stripes.  I also omitted the back waist elastic treatment.  I felt with this fabric it would be clinging since its a knit instead of the woven that the pattern called for and be unnecessary.

The elastic casing would have been difficult to apply to this crochet-like sweater knit.  As it was it was very touchy to work with.  It really wanted to fray where cut.  It needed as little handling as possible and the serger to finish the seams.  I top-stitched the front facing  down as a feature and used some scraps of navy blue jersey for the ties.  It's been a great transition piece for our cool spring. 

The second piece I got done was Burda 6501, view C--a sleeveless, bias top with a ruffle hem.  

I didn't check the length on this before I cut it out.  It looks like a tunic on me and looks high-hip length on the pattern.  I'm not sure What I think about this length yet.  I may shorten it later.  It's in a navy blue cotton voile from Fashion Fabrics.  Cotton is always such a palate cleanser after a tricky fabric  This is a navy blue cotton voile from Fashion Fabrics.  It was such a pleasure to work with.  I didn't check the length of the pattern against me before a stitched it up though.  On me, it a low-hip tunic length.  The pattern photo shows a high-hip length top.  I'm still on the fence about the length.  the conscientious sewer in me wants to take it apart, shorten it, then re-attach the ruffle, while the lazy stitcher in me says it's ok.  We'll see after a wear or two which wins out. 

Going Camping in Vogue 9205

Last month, I mentioned that Hubs and I were going on a camping trip soon.  I made a new shirt for both of us.  Then, the vacation got cancelled.  We were so disappointed but I still have the 2 tops for the next trip.

I made mine using Vogue 9205, a pattern I used before in the black wool/lycra.   Last time I made up this pattern I had trouble with the pleats  on front.  I didn't pay attention and sewed them up as darts.  So much work with the seam ripper!  This time things went so smoothly!

I used some active wear fabric by Judy P Apparel from Fabric Mart.  This is such great stuff.  It has a beefier feel than most active wear does and a tremendous recovery.  It would make great yoga pants.  I'm hoping it has wicking properties, although Fabric Mart did not state that for this fabric, they did for another piece in her collection that I got about a year ago.

Adjustments: there were quite a few this time.  The last top was rather more of a tunic than I wanted for this one.  So, for this top, I shortened the waist 1 inch, shortened the hem 2 inches and did a 3/4 inch narrow shoulder adjustment.  I'm 5'3" tall.  I think I got a much better fit this time around.  This is also the short sleeve version as opposed to the long sleeve version last time.

The pleats came out so nicely and are so easy to do.  They really add a lot of interest to a plain t-shirt.

With the side view you can see that it hugs the body without clinging tightly.  I'm also trying to work on my posture.  I've noticed in the past few pictures, that my shoulders are trying to roll forward.  Too much computer time probably. :)  This pattern is a definite winner and I'm sure I'll have more in the future.

You may have noticed a new badge in my side bar for the Tops That Pop Sew-A-Long.  This is hosted by Faye of Faye's Sewing Adventure.  It runs from April 15 to April 30.  The goal is to sew as many tops as you like and post them either on her blog or Instagram.  If you don't follow Faye, she's a fun blogger that makes great clothes; her coats are especially wonderful.  So, if you need a jumpstart to your spring sewing, this is a great place to find it and a warm, fun host to cheer you on!  I hope you'll join in!

He Is Risen!

He is risen!    Happy Easter everyone!

More Leggings --Simplicity 1280 Again.

I'm really enjoying my black leggings; and decided another pair was in order.  I had this maroon double knit in the stash that I thought would work nicely.

The double knit is a little lighter in weight than the scuba of the last pair.  I think they worked up a little bit looser than the black pair.  Once again, I used an XL waist and hip, then graded the leg and ankle to a Medium.

There was too way too much fabric in the front rise and I removed 2 inches.  The first inch was planned from last working this up last time, but ended up needing a second inch removed to keep it at my waist.  The hem line was also shortened 2 inches. 

These are so comfy to wear.  Although burgundy may sound like an odd color to choose, I have a couple of winter tops and spring/summer tops that go with this color.  So they're going to get some wear!

Hubs and I are going camping soon, so some active wear is on the agenda next.  Happy sewing!

The Fabric Made Me Do It--McCall's 6964

I love this pattern; it's a true TNT for me.  I've made it 6 or 7 times and it's been a winner every time--until this time.  This time, however, was my fault and maybe the fabric's. The fabric is a pretty jersey knit with mesh strips sewn on top with stitches, braid and some sequins from Fabric Mart.

The problem started out with the lay out.  I couldn't be sure which side was the selvedge. I couldn't tell the selvedge from the cut edge.  Typically, with these ruffled fabrics, the ruffles run horizontally.   With this fabric, there is no stretch crosswise with the ruffles running horizontally and the stretch runs vertically.  If  I put the ruffles vertically, the crosswise stretch is going across the body.

Thinking that maybe it was designed to be different, I went with the crosswise stretch and the vertical ruffles.  I cut my usual size 16 neck and 18 bust, waist, and hips.  Looking at the finished product, all I can see is a blue hot dog that's been microwaved and split open in several places.

Apparently, I should have treated the knit as a woven and gone with the no-stretch ruffles on the horizontal and a pattern for a woven as well.  The top doesn't work on me, but it may for someone else so it's going into to donation pile.  

The pattern remains a favorite; the fabric made me do it.  It was a learning  opportunity and several lessons were learned.  So on to the next project.....more leggings!

Done At Last--Vogue 9205

Vogue 9205 is a cute little top that supposed to be a Very Easy Vogue.  That implies quick to me.  Doesn't it to you?  I had a few hiccups along the way.  First, I stitched those pleats in like darts.  No wonder it looked so flat and lack-luster.  So I had to pick all that out and re-sew it.  They look good now that they're done properly.

Then I got interrupted by need now sewing first for the concert, then for Cancer Awareness Days at work.  

Once I got back to it, this top just flew together. I made a size XL based on the finished measurements and did make a few alterations to it:

     * Shortened the waist at the line indicated by 1 inch.

     * Narrowed the shoulders 3/4 inch.

     * Shortened the sleeve 1/2 inch at the hem.

The fabric is a nice wool/lycra blend from Fabric Mart.  I found that it tolerated gentle machine wash and flat dry very well.  I have some in orange, too;  I thought these might be nice for hiking as a base layer.  This one may have come out too cute to use for that.  😁

The next time I make this,  and there will be a next time,  I'll make it a size smaller and shorten it some more so it will be a more fitted top.  Right now, I'm enjoying the loose, tunic feel of this one.  It's just right for cooler spring days. 

For Cancer Awareness--McCall's 6964

I mentioned in the last post that I had some need to sewing to do before I could finish my Vogue top.  One of my co-workers, a very young lady under 30, was recently diagnosed with an aggressive Stage 4 breast cancer with metastasis to the bone.  Her prognosis is bleak but her outlook is so bright and strong.  She's always been an amazing lady but now she's truly inspirational, too.

As a show of support, the whole store is wearing pink and jeans on Fridays--even the guys.  I never noticed it until now, but for some reason I have absolutely no pink in my wardrobe.  Nada.  I needed a top, quick.  I ordered some pink tencel rayon knit, not knowing exactly what it was but that it was recommended for Tshirts and was a pretty shade of pink.  Got it and it's so thin! and clingy!  I wasn't so sure about this but proceeded.

I've made up McCall's 6964 before, and most likely will again.  It's a very straight forward Tshirt pattern that fits well with few changes.  It is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern so if you do need changes like an FBA, it comes with directions on how to do that.  I cut a size 16 neck, and graded to a size 20.  I over-estimated my size but it turns out I needed that extra room.

It turned out very thin and clingy and most unflattering on me.  But it is still pink, so it's still viable until something better comes along.  To make it more flattering, I'm wearing it with a maroon cardigan I made last winter.  I think it works well together, hides my fluff, and keeps me warm as it's usually very cold in the store.

Now that all the need-to sewing is done I can finish up that Vogue top.  It's really bothering me just sitting on the table next to me.  I usually only work one project at a time until it's finished; no UFOs that way.  So working like this is really upsetting my little apple cart.  I know lots of sewists  work on several projects at a time while others are like me and do one at a time.  Which camp are you in and why do you like to work that way?

And remember Ladies, if you haven't had your mammogram, there's no time like the present.  They do save lives. 

Sewing Without a Plan; Butterick 5954 & Simplicty 1280

Did you ever have a plan that got sidelined by another project?  Well, that's what's happened to the Vogue 9205.  I still intend to finish it soon; I just have some need-to sewing that got in the way.

Hubs and I got tickets to see Lana Del Ray in concert in Nashville this week.  I didn't have anything to wear, so of course I had to make a new outfit for the event.  Enter Butterick 5954.  A top I've made before.  My pattern is for XS-Med, and I've grown since I made it last, so I graded to a Large.

The top has a cross over front, cowl neck, a hi-low hem, and lots of flair over the bootie.

The fabric is a Liverpool Double Knit from fabric.com.  It's also available from Cali Fabrics.  I love the prints this stuff comes in and ordered another cut when I got this.  It's not as heavy as some double knits, about the weight of a ponte but with a spongy feel and crepe-like surface.  It was wonderful stuff to sew with.

The new top required a new bottom.  I knew I wanted leggings to go with this top so I found Simplicity 1280  had leggings in it--I bought it for the top as yet unsewn.  This was a super quick and easy project, even with the re-do.

I cut an XL based on my measurement.  Shorted the front rise 1 inch, raised the center back rise 3/4 inch, and added 1/2 inch to inseam at crotch.  I ended up taking in the side and inseams to about a medium (leaving the hips an XL) to get a snugger fit--it ran really loose--and cut 1¼ inch off hem.  Next time I'll take more off the rise as the waistband rides very high on the waist but not annoyingly so.   The fabric is a thin scuba knit from fabric.com from ages ago.  I should be able to wear it year round.

One more side track project and then its back to the Vogue.  And if you're a Lana Del Ray fan, the show was great!  We had a wonderful time.  Try to go if she comes near you.

Vogue 9205 and a Hiccup

So after seeing Cenetta (of The Mahogany Stylist)  version of Vogue 9205, I decided to get the pattern.  Once I pulled  some wool/lycra from the stash, it was a go.

As you can see from the picture, the top features those lovely pleats at the neckline.  Therein lies my hiccup.  I sewed darts instead of pleats.  I've just spent the morning unpicking and re-stitching.  Hopefully, the rest goes smoothly.  More coming soon......

New Year, New Outlook, New Jacket

I know. I know. I've been gone so long it's heinous.  I have a terrible history as poor blogger but I'm taking steps to improve that.  I sew, but often don't blog it because of the photo issue.  I can take photos on Zelda, but they're meh because it's not a real person.  Getting one of the men in the house to take a photo is like hunting down a rare, wild animal--they're just not to be found when the time is right.  So I've tried a friend's tripod with remote.  I liked it and I ordered one up for myself.  This is going to be so much easier than the 10 second delay on my phone!  Now that I can take photos of my projects I should be able to blog about those projects as they come off the machine.

To keep me productive and focused, I've joined the 50 Yard Dash sew-a-long on Pattern Review.  The purpose of this sew-a-long is to sew 50 yards of fabric this year from our stash.  I think that this is a very attainable goal.  It comes out to roughly a yard a week.  That doesn't sound so bad.  It's a very busy thread with a very large group of participants.   So far this year, I've finished Michael's shirt-jacket = 3 yards.  This will be blogged about as soon as I can capture photos of him and the jacket.  I've also just finished today's jacket for 2½ yards.  That makes me with 5½ yards sewn and 44.5 yards to go.  Woohoo!  I've also joined the 2018 Fabric Fast thread and so far, I've not bought fabric since mid-November.  Another big Woohoo!

Now on to the jacket.

This is Simplicity 8172 view C one of their kimono jackets.  View C is supposed to be done in contrast fabric for the top and bottom, but I have this lovely knit velvet that is embroidered with flowers and swirls and has little sequins scattered over it that I wanted to use for a kimono  and I loved the flair in back on this one.  I used the Large size for my size 42 bust. As  you can see, the fit is still very forgiving.

In the pattern photo, the underbust seam comes just below the bust.  Mine is riding on my very short waist.  I like it on my waist ok, but I think next time I'd really like to shorten it but I'm not sure how.  If anyone has ideas, please let me know in the comments.

I didn't realize until I got to that part in the instructions, but the neckline and front edges are finished with single-fold bias tape.

I thought this gave a neater finish than folding over and stitching.  It also gave some structure to the neckline and front edge without being stiff.  Luckily, I happened to have some in stock in just the right color.

You can see the little flair in the back skirt area.  The sleeves end with a self-fabric cuff. (Pattern calls for contrast color here.)   It's warm and cozy with my pale yellow t-shirt.  I have plans for a lime green charmeuse tank for it for this spring.  There's a yard or so of it left over from another project.

Hope your New Year's resolutions and plans are all off to a good start.  And I hope it includes some  sewing!