Button-Down Fever -- Simplicity 1013

I know everybody reads Carolyn at Diary of a Sewing Fanatic, right?  If you've been following her lately, then you know she's been on a binge with button-down shirts.  Well, I caught the fever and the cure was this so cute button-down from Simplicity with a little extra fun in back.

I sewed View C with the bias patch pockets on front and the gathered "skirt" in back pictured on the cover.  Love it.  Found some awesome plaid shirting and black georgette from Fashion Fabric Club.

I know, orange and black--strong statement.  But it's so fun!

The directions were wonderful easy.  Usually I have a terrible time with a continuous lap on a sleeve but these came out nicely.  The pattern piece is slightly wider and the directions are very good.

I like that it can be worn buttoned up like shown here or open over another top like a jacket like I wore it last weekend.  Perfect for our cooler temps. 

The only thing I did different from the directions was to top-stitch the placket down.  It's the kind you just fold over and your buttons and buttonholes are supposed to keep it in place.  My fabric doesn't really take a press well, so I knew this would make those plackets unruly in no time.  So I stitched them down like they were normal plackets.  I think they look more finished for it.

I love my new button down shirt.  It's great with jeans, leggings, or my black slacks.  I like it so much, I've started another button-down, McCall's 7472!

Happy spring sewing all!

Mixed Emotions About Vogue 8534

I need tops to transition into Spring.   I decided upon Vogue 8534, view C  with the little ties for my first one.

I think this top evokes mixed feelings for me for several reasons.  First, the pattern.  It's long.  Very long for short ol' me.  I took 6½ inches off the hemline and it's still a little on the long side. 

Second, the directions.  The pattern has you leave the neckline unfinished since its a knit.  I couldn't  do that-- it just looked too unfinished.  So I serger finished the edges of the neckline and ties. It's still not the neatness of a hemmed finish but it will do.  Since I serged the neck, I just serged the hem and sleeve hems as well for a consistent "deconstructed" look.

Third, is my fabric.  I got a wonderful drapey ITY from Fabric Mart back in November.  I love it but it very thin and very drapey.  I clings to every lump, bump, and bulge I've got.  I've only got one bra at this time that gives a smooth enough silhouette front and back.  The others cause more bumps.  (I really need to go bra shopping). 

I love how the sleeves are part of the upper bodice.  I love the little ties, but really not thrilled with the serged edge.  Not fond of the deconstructed look at all.  So you see, I like it, but I also don't like it.  I guess I'll decided after a couple more wearings.  But on to more exciting projects!

Finally! Simplicity 1254-- The Leanne Marshall Coat.

I finally finished this coat and I'm finally getting to wear it and I'm also finally getting around to blogging about it!  I've been working on Simplicity 1254 for weeks now.  It's been my first foray into coat making and it's really been the learning process.  

I made view A, the shorter version.  I didn't do a muslin, and I probably should have.  I had read reviews on Pattern Review that it ran snug, especially in the arms and they advised going up a size, which I did.  The only other change I made was to narrow the shoulders a ½ inch.  A muslin would have revealed that the pockets are small and I would have made those larger, but that's the only change I would have made. 

The coat is made of a poly/wool blend Melton coating from Fabric Mart.  I caught is on sale for only $16 a yard, which was my most expensive fabric purchase ever!  But I loved the plum color so much!  The pictures really don't do it justice.  It's a lovely deep plum/berry color.  The lining is a pink poly-charmeuse from Fashion Fabric club.  I decided to interline it for added warmth and used some soft flannel from Joann's.  The wool sewed so nicely!  I can see now why so many sewists enjoy using it. 

The pattern directions were OK until you get to step 11.  That's where everyone on Pattern Review was getting lost, too.  Their method of attaching the lining to the coat makes no sense.  I finally just did it my way and it worked out well. 

The zipper is a little odd but in the end it does make sense.  You just have to read the directions through before you apply it.  The cowl collar closes with a large snap I purchased at Joann's. 

I'm really enjoying wearing my coat.  When I finished it, the temps were in the upper 50s and 60s.  Not coat weather.  So disappointed.  Since then, however, winter has found it's way back to us and I've gotten lots of opportunity to wear it.  I'm sure this is an item that will be worn for several years.

Now on to Spring sewing!  Happy sewing all!

 

I Won A Prize!

Miss Faye of Faye's Sewing Adventure hosted a series of periscopes on outerwear.  These were not only entertaining, they were very informative as well.   I don't know how to link to periscope like she did, but you can find the links on her blog.  At the end of each, she hosted a give-away of a pattern and yours truly actually won one of them!  I was so surprised!

It's a coat pattern, Vogue 9133. It's even in my size range! If you ever need inspiration for that next coat, jacket or cape,  check her out.  She's done so many and they're all wonderful!

 Thank you so much Miss Faye for hosting the periscope which I enjoyed so much and for the give away.  Your pattern found a good home. I can't decide if I like view B or C best. 

Happy sewing all! 

Cool Tools and Some New Patterns

I'm still working on the Leanne Marshall coat.  It's coming along slowly but progress is being made.  One of the things I read about preparatory to this coat was the issue of pressing.  One of the posters on the Pattern Review Sew-A-Long mentioned that she didn't think her hem looked as good as it could have if she had used a tailor's clapper to get a better crease. I wasn't familiar with this tool so I looked it up and found this great video from Angela Wolf on how to use one.




How did I ever manage to live without one of these?  I promptly ordered one from Nancy's Notions along with a pressing ham for those princess seams.

I'd long wanted a ham and Joann's just never has them in stock.  They arrived just in time for use and they're wonderful.  All I need now is a ham stand to hold the ham for me. 

On to the new patterns...   A couple of weeks ago, Joann's had their Simplicity and Burda on sale so I grabbed a couple for the collection.  I say collection because I have no immediate plans for any of these:

I got Simplicity 1316 for a top or two this summer, love those princess seams and cut on sleeves; Burda 6502, view A with a border print challis or eyelet would be great; and Simplicity 8259, it's just such a dreamy dress but who knows when I'll make it--just had to have it though. 

That's all my news for now.  I'm back to the coat and attaching the hood; the end is in sight.

Happy sewing all!

In The Sewing Room

Yay!  I'm getting a little time to sew.  Unfortunately, I need a lot of time to sew.  The project I'm currently working on is Simplicity 1254, the Leanne Marshall coat.

I just love that cowl/hood!  The pattern says its easy, but the comments on Pattern Review say the directions can be very convoluted in places. There was a Sew-along in 2015 for this pattern and there are several reviews. 

I have a lovely plum colored wool/polyester coating blend that I'm using.  It's my most expensive fabric purchase ever, even on sale!  From Fabric Mart, of course--my Achilles heel.  The lining is a pretty pink charmeuse from Fabric.com.  I decided to interline it.  I looked for Thinsulate by the yard and couldn't find any.  Decided it was probably overkill anyway and settled for the flannel that everyone else in blogland uses--from Joann's. 

Yesterday, I attached the interlining to the lining per the instructions found in Singer Sewing Reference Library book "Tailoring".  I also started thread marking my reference points on the front for the zipper, front fold and center front.  That's such tedious work but so much more effective and durable than chalk marking. 

Hopefully, I'll get in another hour or so this morning to work on it before I go into work. I'll keep you posted on progress. 

Happy sewing all!

Happy New Year and Simplicity 1070

Happy New Year all!  I've been thinking about the whole resolution thing and have decided it's not for  me this year.  I always feel so bad when they fall by the wayside a few months later.  I've been reading other bloggers choosing a theme word for the year.  They choose a word that holds meaning for them for the coming year to bring meaning or perspective to their lives.  I've seen several inspiring ones but the word that came to my mind for this year was Obligation.  I have been rather negligent  in some of my obligations and have demonstrated misguided loyalties/obligations in some areas as well.  I need to make more meaningful time for my husband and  family, turn down work requests for overtime sometimes; I don't have to be the only one to save them.  I have an obligation and a spiritual need to return to church.  In the past year I have gained a considerable amount of weight and owe it to myself to take better care of myself.  My fabric/pattern stash represents an obligation as well.  I have all those dreams and expectations that haven't been realized yet.  I would like to see more use of fabric and pattern and have need for more clothes that fit as well.  I've also been terribly lax about blogging, something else I can make strides in.  These are not resolutions but rather areas I should like to see improvement in meeting my obligations to things I've already committed to.  I think I will find more balance in my life as a result. On to sewing....

I made this last year but never got round to blogging it, Simplicity 1070, the jacket. 

I loved this pattern the moment I saw it, but was intimidated by the call for leather on it.  I finally decided to make it up when I found the quilted-look faux leather at Joann's.  I got the knit, a neoprene scuba--not the swimwear kind--from Gorgeous Fabrics.  Now it being a knit and a woven, as designed by the pattern, I anticipated it being difficult to manipulate the two fabrics.  The scuba knit was so stable, though, it handled like a dream with the leather.  I used a leather micro needle and a Teflon foot and had no problems. 

I cut a size 18 and narrowed the shoulder about ½ inch.  That was the only adjustment and it fits to a T!  Usually, I have to lengthen the sleeves, but these were perfect as is.  It fastens with a pair of D-rings sewn into the left princess seam and a tab on the right flap.  It looks great open or closed.  There are pockets of a truly useful size in the front princess seams as well. 

The back has princess seams as well for added shaping.  The knit makes this such an incredibly comfortable jacket. And the leather makes it just so darn stylish!  Every time I wear it, I get compliments.  It's one of the best looking and the best fitting item I've made.

The pattern itself was very easy to follow.  The directions made sense throughout and the illustrations were helpful.  The pattern pieces fit together perfectly!  Every seam and notch was where it was supposed to be, how it supposed be. 

I can't say how much I love this jacket.  Only that I wore it non-stop until it got to cool to wear it for outerwear.  Now it's just occasionally as a regular jacket.  I can't recommend this pattern highly enough.

Happy New Year and Happy Sewing!